Exploring and Mobility

I have been an active person my entire life.  While I've been lucky to suffer only a couple major injuries, I am noticing that my explorations come with an increase in pain.  Most people suffer minor annoyances and nagging stiffness as we get older, but I have the added benefit of an autoimmune disorder which enhances inflammation responses in my body.  When normal people get sore or stiff, my body tries to swell up like an air cast.

Living with low to medium level pain on a daily basis for the last 10 years has caused me to have a skewed perception of a "normal" pain.  In the last 5 weeks, I have started weekly injections of Enbrel at the recommendation of my rheumatologist.  This decision was made after adopting a non-dairy, non-gluten, anti-inflammatory diet for over a month with no discernible improvement.  Now I deal with palm sized, raised, itchy, injection site reactions that take nearly two weeks to go away (just in time for my next injection at that site), and am wondering if the improvement is worth the trouble.  I have experience a bit of improvement, but not to the degree that I would consider the side effects worth the benefit.  I have 6  more weeks to go before I should know whether or not this is a viable treatment or not, but I'm not sure if I trust my perception.  At what point do I say my pain is my normal?

At my age there is a lot I can do in terms of diet and exercise to help my body cope with the demands of traveling and exploring.  I can drink less, eat better, exercise more, and generally try to live a more healthy lifestyle.  I know this, but what I enjoy in my explorations are the edible and potable opportunities that present themselves in my travels.  I'm not willing to lessen my enjoyment of life at this time to cater to a potential number of years ahead of me that could be rendered moot by a freak accident crossing the street.

Yes I exercise.  Yes I try to eat a reasonable diet.  Yes I will have that glass of wine and that wonderful dessert.  If pain is my price, I will gladly pay it.  The question for me is what is "normal" and to what ends should I go to to mitigate pain before it is no longer worth it.  I will continue to explore and adventure as long as I am physically able.  I'm not quite 40 but I feel as though I have the joints of a 60 year old.  It seems weird at my age to be thinking of slowing down, but I want to keep pushing as long as I can while getting the greatest enjoyment out of life along the way.

I do not have it hard by far compared to some of my friends who have MS or other debilitating diseases.  This is not a plea for sympathy.  This is my merely my reflections on my desire to continue exploring and gathering experiences as long as I can, and then find ways to continue on in spite of my body.

Volunteering with Outdoors for All

Volunteering is a great way to balance out the stress of work. I had a fabulous time volunteering with Outdoors for All Foundation as they partnered with Lifelong Recreation Programs for a snowshoe day along the Iron Horse Trail. Both great organizations.

Touring with the National Forest Service

I was excited to find that the National Forest Service hosts donation based, guided snowshoe walks at most of the major passes in WA.  When you sign up, there is a suggested donation amount, but it's pay what you can to participate.  What a great way to get out and explore.

I went on a photography focused tour in the Commonwealth Basin area at Snoqualmie Pass.  Along the way, the ranger gave us specific assignments to explore lighting, composition, aperture, shutter speed, and the various presets on our cameras.  He took us off the beaten path so we could capture the mountains, waterfalls, and interesting forest flora in the area.  In addition to learning a lot about photographic techniques, we also got a short course in avalanche awareness and local wildlife.

These tours are highly recommended for anyone who wants to get out and explore.

Save the Best for Last

Of the three countries I visited, I enjoyed Denmark the most.  Granted my exposure to Denmark was limited to Copenhagen and the scenery whizzing by the train heading north, but Copenhagen was definitely the highlight.  If you're there for two or more days, get the Copenhagen Card, it's well worth it.

The city is larger than Stockholm or Oslo, but nearly walkable if you take your time.  It seemed like public transit never went where I wanted to go or the walk to the stop was halfway to where I was going anyway.  On my second to last day I finally figured out the bus system and was able to hop on/hop off as needed.  The metro is good for going further afield, but the buses are the best bet within the city.

If you're in Copenhagen around the holidays, Tivoli is a must.  It is an adult version of Disneyland with holiday lights and mulled wine.  Go at night when everything is lit up and the atmosphere is festive.  If you find one of the Christmas markets be sure to stay a while and take in the holiday cheer.

There are a ton of attractions in and around Copenhagen to keep you busy, here are a few of the places I visited:

• Rundetaarn (Round Tower) - Hike up and take in the views of Copenhagen
• Rosenborg Slot - Former palace and gardens
• Den Bla Planet - Copenhagen's aquarium with a tunnel you can walk through for a 180 degree view of the marine life.
• Copenhagen Zoo - The lion exhibit is amazing if the lions decide to come out and play.
• Christianborg Slot - Current residence of the Danish royalty.  Don't skip the royal stables and the ruins underneath the castle.
• HC Andersen Eventyrhuset - A walk through museum with tableaus of HC Andersen stories.  Ripley's is next door if it's raining and you're looking to stay inside for a bit longer.
• Carlsberg Brewery - The guided tour and tastings are worth the price, plus you get two free drinks with admission.
• Tycho Brahe Planetarium - IMAX movies and a science museum rolled together.

Botanical Gardens

Copenhagen Zoo

Den Bla Planet

Side Trips

Between Oslo and Copenhagen I detoured to the West coast of Norway to the town of Bergen.  The Bryggen district contains the old wharf and commercial buildings that are now boast World Heritage Site status.  While once the former center of the league of Hanseatic merchants, Bergen is now a town for tourists and the jumping off point for exploring Norway's fjords.

Unfortunately I was in Bergen during the off season and unable to catch a fjord tour so I ended up attempting to stay dry and wishing I had gone North from Oslo instead of West.  You can take the Floibanen (funicular) from the commercial district for sweeping views of the city.  If it's dry, there is a series of hiking trials to explore and play areas for the kids.  There is also a cafe at the top during the busy season.

Bergen

Another distraction in Bergen is the Akvariet (aquarium).    You'll find a wide variety of animals at the aquarium and can view penguin feedings, sea lion shows, and exhibits illustrating the native environments of Norway.

Akvariet

To break up the trip from Bergen to Copenhagen, I stopped for a night in Fredrikstad and wandered around the fortified old town.  To get there, take a short (free) ferry ride across the canal behind the train station.  Walk around the fortifications, visit the museum, or stroll through the market in the main square.

Fredrikstad Old Town

Exploration by Sea

Norway has a long history of exploration by sea.  In Bygdoy, a short bus ride outside of Oslo, you can visit three museums dedicated to seafaring Norwegians.

Viking Ship Museum

With free wifi, you can wander around and listen to the online audio tour to learn more about the Viking ships displayed. Ornately carved and well preserved, these ships are amazing.

Fram Museum

Climb through the Polar Ship Fram and learn about the Arctic expeditions of Fridtjof Nansen and Otto Sverdrup, and the Antartic expedition of Roald Amundsen.  You can also view the Gjoa, the first ship to sail the entire Northwest Passage.

Kon-Tiki Museum

The Kon-Tiki museum is dedicated to Thor Heyerdal's Pacific ocean voyage on the balsawood raft, the Kon-Tiki.  Commentary from crew members provide insight into the expedition and the antics that occurred on the voyage.  If one crazy expedition wasn't enough, the Ra is also on display which Heyerdal floated across the Atlantic.

Other Attractions

Oslo feels like a smaller, more walkable version of Stockholm with attractions scattered further outside the core downtown area.

Within the core you can:

• Walk on the roof of the Norwegian National Ballet and Opera building.  
• Visit the fortifications of Akershus Fortress (beautifully lit up at night).
• Shop or grab a bit to eat in Aker Brygge.
• See The Scream in the National Gallery.

Further afield you can visit the Holmenkollen Ski jump, and participate in seasonal activities in the snow or on the water.  With attractions spread outside the city, the Oslo Pass is a good investment for the public transport benefit.   You also receive a discount at some restaurants so be sure to check before you dine.

Swedish Fish and Meatballs

Stockholm

Stockholm is a mix of new industry, shopping, and old world architecture.  While I didn't find any Swedish fish, I did have some of the best Swedish meatballs on my visit to Stockholm.  Even if you don't plan on going to a lot of museums, the Stockholm Card is worth it for the convenience.  No worrying about paying at each attraction and you can jump on public transit if you get tired or stuck in a sudden downpour.

Interesting Attractions:

• Vasa Museet - Learn about the age of Vikings
• Skansen - See below
• Kulturhuset Stadsteatern - Culture center
• Riddarholmen Church - Resting place of Sweden's monarchs
• Gamla Stan - Walk around the old town and take in the Royal Palace (don't skip the crown jewels).
• Drottninggatan - Stroll along the shops

Skansen

"Skansen is the world's first open-air museum, founded in 1891. Here you can stroll through five centuries of Swedish history, from north to south, with a real sense of the past all around in the historical buildings and dwellings, peopled by characters in period dress."

They aren't kidding about people in period dress.  Scared the bejesus out of me the first time I opened a door to find someone looking back at me.  That ratcheted up the overall creepiness factor given the gloomy day and overall deserted feeling of the park.

Besides the historical structures, you'll find a mini zoo, aquarium, and a traditional town with a functioning restaurant.  Skansen is a fun place to spend a day wandering around outside and has enough variation to keep everyone interested.